We use a Glaze product to conceal slight defects such as light scratches and swirl marks which also substantially enhances the paintwork, giving it a new lease of life by adding more depth and gloss. To protect the Glaze and paintwork from future contaminations, a high-quality sealant or Carnauba-based wax is applied.

Wheels are also cleaned and sealed – thereby protecting them and making future cleaning easier, and any exterior rubber or plastic trim is cleaned and conditioned. Additionally, Chrome and Aluminium parts are cleaned and polished.

This detail will take approximately 6-8 hours to complete, depending on the size and condition of the vehicle.

• Please do not hesitate to phone or email us for details on the Optional Extras.

First Stage

• The car is washed safely using 100% sheepskin wash mitts and pH Neutral car shampoo. Wheel arches, door shuts, panel gaps and badges are also cleaned thoroughly with detailing brushes
• Wheels cleaned on the outer and inner sides of the rim using a safe wheel cleaner
• All paintwork decontaminated using a clay bar process
• Wheel arches cleaned and protected
• Car hand-dried using soft, plush drying towels

Second Stage

• A Glaze product is applied to the paint to conceal slight defects such as light scratches and swirl marks. This also gives fresh depth and gloss to the paintwork
• High-Grade Carnauba wax or paint sealant applied to paint

Third Stage

• Any Aluminium or Chrome metalwork cleaned, polished and protected
• Wheels sealed and protected
• Tyres, plus any exterior plastic or rubber trim are cleaned and conditioned

Optional Extras

• Engine Bay Detail (please contact us for further information)
• Gtechnig C1 Crystal Lacquer paintwork treatment. This coating chemically bonds to the paintwork giving unrivalled UV resistance, dirt repellency, easy clean and swirl-mark resistance. It also lasts up to 10 times longer than dealer-applied products.
• Gtechnig C5 Wheel Armour protection treatment (includes wheel removal). This ultra-durable wheel protection product uses a unique chemical bonding mechanism to repel brake dust and road dirt, as well as making cleaning easy, and will last upwards of one year.

It includes a single-stage machine polish using a Rotary polisher. This stage puts life back into the paintwork, and it becomes brighter, deeper and glowing once again. Do not confuse our machine polishing skills with those of a body shop, who use a ‘mop’ and polisher to do a ‘quick job’ on the paint – ours is highly skilled and expert work, using only the very best products available to ensure a superb and exceptional finish.

Fine scratches and swirl marks – plus any oxidisation and fading – dull and flatten the look of the paint finish. These problems are thoroughly eliminated, enhancing and restoring the lustre of the paintwork, bringing it back to its original intended beauty.

We also apply a high-grade wax or sealant, which brings a beautiful shine to the paint and also protects it from future contaminates and U.V. rays.

This Gloss Enhancement Detail takes approximately 10-12 hours to complete, depending on the size of the vehicle.

First Stage

• The car is washed safely using 100% sheepskin wash mitts and pH Neutral car shampoo. Wheel arches, door shuts, panel gaps and badges are also cleaned thoroughly with detailing brushes
• Wheels cleaned on the outer and inner sides of the rim using a safe wheel cleaner
• All paintwork decontaminated using a clay bar process
• Wheel arches cleaned and protected
• Car hand-dried using soft, plush drying towels

Second Stage

• Paintwork measured and inspected using an Ultrasonic Paint Thickness Gauge
• Single-stage machine polish – using a Rotary Machine Polisher with a Final Finish compound
• Paintwork thoroughly cleansed to help the wax or sealant bond properly
• High-Grade Carnauba wax or paint sealant applied to paint

Third Stage

• Any Aluminium or Chrome metalwork cleaned, polished and protected
• Wheels sealed and protected
• Tyres, plus any exterior plastic or rubber trim are cleaned and conditioned

Optional Extras

• Engine Bay Detail (please contact us for further information)
• Gtechnig C1 Crystal Lacquer paintwork treatment. This coating chemically bonds to the paintwork giving unrivalled UV resistance, dirt repellency, easy clean and swirl-mark resistance. It also lasts up to 10 times longer than dealer-applied products.
• Gtechnig C5 Wheel Armour protection treatment (includes wheel removal). This ultra-durable wheel protection product uses a unique chemical bonding mechanism to repel brake dust and road dirt, as well as making cleaning easy, and will last upwards of one year.

We use a Rotary Machine Polisher in a three-stage process which totally removes light-to-medium scratches, swirls marks, holograms and other defects from your paintwork.
After this is finished, your car’s paint will be utterly beautiful. It will reflect light faultlessly and take on a beyond-new look, with the sort of stunning depth, richness and brilliance usually only seen in the manufacturer’s promotional material of the vehicle.

When the paintwork is completely corrected and all defects have been removed, we then seal it with a superb quality Carnauba-based wax or sealant to protect it.

First Stage

• The car is washed safely using 100% sheepskin wash mitts and pH Neutral car shampoo. Wheel arches, door shuts, panel gaps and badges are also cleaned thoroughly with detailing brushes
• Wheels cleaned on the outer and inner sides of the rim using a safe wheel cleaner
• All paintwork decontaminated using a clay bar process
• Wheel arches cleaned and protected
• Car hand-dried using soft, plush drying towels

Second Stage

• Paintwork measured and inspected using an Ultrasonic Paint Thickness Gauge
• Three-stage machine polish using various compounds and polishes appropriate to the condition of the paintwork
• Paintwork thoroughly cleansed to help the wax or sealant bond properly
• High-Grade Carnauba wax or paint sealant applied to paint

Third Stage

• Any Aluminium or Chrome metalwork cleaned, polished and protected
• Wheels sealed and protected
• Tyres, plus any exterior plastic or rubber trim are cleaned and conditioned

Optional Extras

• Engine Bay Detail (please contact us for further information)
• Gtechnig C1 Crystal Lacquer paintwork treatment. This coating chemically bonds to the paintwork giving unrivalled UV resistance, dirt repellency, easy clean and swirl-mark resistance. It also lasts up to 10 times longer than dealer-applied products.
• Gtechnig C5 Wheel Armour protection treatment (includes wheel removal). This ultra-durable wheel protection product uses a unique chemical bonding mechanism to repel brake dust and road dirt, as well as making cleaning easy, and will last upwards of one year.

Our Interior Detail takes into account any delicate surface materials, and we always apply the very best care, attention and most suitable products to keep your vehicle’s interior in the finest condition possible – as our company name suggests, the detail to our work on cars is in-depth and exceptionally thorough.

Our Interior Detail will around 2 – 4 hours on average, but this is dependant on the condition of the vehicle.

The list of what we carry out is large, but typically includes the essentials below:

• Appropriate surfaces are carefully vacuumed
• All surfaces dusted and wiped down thoroughly
• Glass cleaned to a total clear finish
• Leather is deeply cleansed, fed and conditioned
• Wood, carbon fibre, metals, soft plastics and other materials meticulously cleaned and protected
• Deep cleansing shampoo of carpets, matts, headliner and other suitable surfaces if required

When I arrived at the customer’s to detail the car the first thing he did was take me out for a drive in it.  Sadly the roads were quite wet and slippy so it wasn’t possible to get all of the power down but it was clear that this car is just stupidly quickly and an absolutely amazing machine. The owner is quite an accomplished driver and the car amazed me with the amount of grip it had in the wet. I’m looking forward to getting another spin in it when the roads are dry.

The memory card on my camera stopped working and lost all of the pictures but luckily I was able to recover most of the them. I generally like to have before and afters of each area but sadly quite a lot of pictures were lost.

So the first day was spend washing and decontaminating the car (no pictures of this stage). The wash stage comprised of a through rinse to remove any dirt and then the bodywork washed using lambwool wash mitts. The wheels (inside and out), wheel arches, door shuts and engine bay were washed at this stage too. Once the car was washed and dried I took some pictures of it’s condition.

The car going in to car wash mode which I thought was pretty cool.

Grease on the massive calliper. This was later steamed off to avoid using strong chemical on the carbon cerammic brake discs.

Polish from the dealership

And loads of compound from the factory.

Rubbers needed treated

Sticky marks and wrapping still let in places on the interior

The left hand side of the car was covered in paint overspray and almost all of the car was covered in strange black dots – including all inside the drivers windscreen and inside the rear engine cover. I’m not sure exactly what these dots were (possibly some kind of sealer used in the factory on the windows).

This picture shows a large black spot inside the windscreen . However there were thousands of little black dots of this same texture all of the car that couldn’t be picked up very well on camera.

Another of the larger spots.

Almost as soon as I put the car back in the garage then sun out for minute and lit up the rear of the car to show the true condition of the paint.

The strange lines you see in the paintwork here are machine polishing marks (also known as buffer trails) from the factory.

This is pretty much how the whole car looked. As mentioned it was also covered in black dots, paint overspray, loads of pigtails (sanding marks from sanding removing the orange peel in the factory), swirl marks and random deep scratches from being washed poorly. Not really what most people would expect on a brand new car that costs just shy of £250,000.

People would expect car of this value to be absolutely perfect from brand new but sadly this is not the case. The reason for most of these defects is because these cars (along with Aston, Bentleys, Lamborghinis etc) meaning there is much more room for human error than cars that are painted by machine. Once the cars are painted by hand all of the paintwork is flattened back (sanded) to remove the orange peel, ensuring the paintwork is flat which creates amazing reflections and gloss that can’t be achieved on cars that have orange peel. After the cars are sanded they are machine polished to remove all of the sanding marks and restore the gloss to the paint. This is where the problems occur.

On this car there are quite a few areas where that are dull from being sanded and not being polished back up correctly. And then there is also lots of machine polishing marks where the rotary polisher operator at the factory seems to have went over the whole car very quickly (probably due to time constraints at the factory) with a abbrasive polish and wool pad. This has resulted in a lot of buffer trails (as seen above) and even a small area where the paintwork (lacquer) polished too much and the operator has gone through the top coat (lacquer). As you can see above and from the following pictures this makes the paintwork look terrible in direct sunglight and dull the finish under normal lighting conditions.

The aim of this detail was to remove all of these sading marks, buffer trails, random deep scratches that were all over the car and to take the paintwork to a level where it was as close to perfect as possible.

Rear bumper showing swirls and sanding marks

The strange patch here is an area that is dull due being sanded and not polished back up

Deep scratches on the roof

More buffer trails on the roof. These pictures with the car inside the garage and the sun shining in to the garage.

The sun then dissapered so I inspected the rest of the car using various light sources to check the paintwork for defects. As mentioned these defects aren’t always apparent when the car is not in direct sunlight, they dull the finish by prevent the paintwork from reflecting light properly.

Bonnet showing sanding marks and buffer trails – highlighted by using a 3m sun gun.

As you can see here the highlighed area is pink and hazy due to the defects.

Wing

Over spray on wing and door

Overspray and scratches on front bumper

Rear bumper

Side skirt

Rear lights

Wing mirror

and the underside of them

Overspray on the door – you can see the tape lines where the overspray stops. It was all over the windows too.

A deep scratch

This show the length it ran (between the 2 bits of tape)

More random scatches in the paintwork

Well I think that’s enough picture of the paintwork defects and I’m sure you get the idea by now.

The rest of day 1 was spent claying the car and removing all of the black spots stuck to the paintwork, exterior glass and engine cover. It took around 6 hours to remove the black spots as they were everywhere and were like small stones in places meaning I had to be very careful not to damage the paintwork whilst removing them. Also they were all over the inside of the rear window and this area required a lot of caution due to the heating element.

Day 2 was spend on the removing the defects from the worst areas of the car – the bumper, side skirts and wing mirrors. The headlights and carbon fibre rear spiltter were corrected too.

Some completed pictures under the 3m sun gun – as you can see all of the swirls and scratches have been removed and the paintwork looks deeper and glossier.

Day 3 was spent correcting the rest of the bodywork and door shuts.

On Day 4 final polishing the whole car before wiping it down with IPA to remove any polishing oils. The paintwork was then inspected using the 3m sun gun to ensure if was perfect, free from defects and ready for a coat of our premium carnauba wax.

After waxing the car on the day the sun started to steam in to the garage and I managed to grab a few pictures of how the paintwork looked.

All scratches gone

Rember what the rear of the car looked like?

A quick reminder

After

In the bright sunlight cars either looks their very best or if they’re covered in paintwork defects they can look their worst. With the sun looking like it might be out for a short while I reversed the car out and took some picture of the car to show off the finish. Please note the paintwork is completed but the car is not in these pictures (hence tyres not dressed, windows a bit streaky etc).

The car was then taken back inside to complete the detailing of the exterior. The tasks performed were:

All windows protected with Gtechniq G1
All rubbers were protected with Gtechniq C4
Wheels and callipers were protected with Gtechniq C5
Exhausts polished with britemax metal polished and protected with Gtechniq C1
Tyres were dressed with Swissvax Pneu
Engine bay protected and luggage areas protected with Aerospace 303 protectant.
All of the polishing compound and dust in nooks and crannies from the factory was removed at this stage too.

Day 5, with “just” the interior to finish should have been straight forward. Firstly i spend around an hour removing the dots from the inside of the front windscreen. I then pulled the seats forward to inspect the lovely carbon fibre backs revealed the following :

Not the best finsh! The leather and vunerable areas of the seats were tapped in and the seat back were machine polished which made a massive difference.

All of the carbon fibre panels were polished up by hand and machine where possible to remove minor scratches. It was then all waxed to protect it.

Carpets were hovered and protected with Gtechniq i1 smart fabric. The leather was gently wipe down and then protected with Gtechniq L1 and all of the windows were cleaned and inspected with the sun gun to ensure a perfect streak free finish.

So after a long and enjoyable 5 days on this amazing car, here is the final shots of the car in the garage.

Thanks for reading

Robert

On arrival I was very impressed by the condition of the car.  It had just returned from a service at the dealership, so had a light covering of dirt – but overall it looked in great condition.

I started off by snapping before pictures of the car snapping. Now usually at this stage I would be taking pictures of all of the dirt in the nooks and crannies that usually get missed, however the more I looked at the car the more clear it became that it was pretty immaculate and there wasn’t much to photograph.

The engine bay was pretty clean too with just a light covering of dirt.

The owner thought the carbon fiber looked fine. It didn’t look too bad but I was confident I could make a massive improvement on it as it looked quite dull.

As did the exhaust silencer.

The carbon fiber mirrors looked quite dull too.

As usual I started off with the wheels and arches. With the brake disks being carbon ceramic caution needs to be exercised when cleaning the wheels so that the chemicals don’t damage the brake discs. Fortunately carbon brakes also mean that the wheels aren’t covered in the usual brake dust that can take a while to remove properly. The wheels were fairly clean and were just given a quick clean with water and shampoo. I intend to double check these later on and ensure they were perfect using only steam.

The only thing letting the wheels down was some residue from an old alloy wheel weight.

Which was easily removed.

At this point luckily the sun came out. It wasn’t out for long but it allowed me to take a few pictures showing the main reason the car was booked in – to correct the swirl marks and scratches.

Here’s a shot of the roof showing the typical swirl marks and quite a few deep scratches including the two long ones here that ran straight across the whole roof.

And the quarter panel near the door showing quite a deep scratch too.

And some perfectly space smears on engine cover glass. I asked the owner about these as it look like some tool was used but he had no idea how they got like that. I can only assume it was a tool used by the dealership the day before. They were instruced not to wash the car but may have give the engine a quick clean whilst carrying out the service. Impressive really…

Swirl marks on the carbon fiber.

The car was then washed with a lambswool wash mitt using the usual safe procedure to ensure no more swirls are inflicted. There was no tar on the car at all so the car was then taken inside to be clay barred (which didn’t pick anything up) and then dried off ready to start the paintwork correction process.

Before commencing paintwork correction I went round the car tapping up any vulnerable trim and edges and also inspected paintwork. This was done both visually and with a paint thickness guage to check for potential problems. Overall the reading were fairly consistant with no signs that the whole car had been corrected before due to the various sanding marks (the paintwork is sanded at to remove orange peel) left all over by the factory.

A couple of areas of concern were noted. Firstly there was a very small area of paint had a strange texture to it just below the nearside headlight. Taking reads showed that the paint here was quite a bit lower than the areas at both side of it. I suspect that there was possibly a scratch here before and someone had tried to machine polish it out.

To the left of the area.

On the area.

To the right of it.

This area was avoided completely whilst machine polishing. There was also a low spot on the roof too which luckily wasn’t near the large scratches pointed out earlier so wasn’t too much of a concern.

And the normal reading on the rest of the roof.

The defects on this car didn’t show up too well using the halogen lighting and sun gun, however the earlier before pictures in direct sunlight should give you an idea of the overall condition of the paintwork of the car and how each of these panels would have look in the sunlight.

Before – sanding marks from the factory and general swirls visible around the light source here.

After – with the side vent taped up to prevent polish residue and dust getting in there which would be hard to remove.

Roof showing more sanding marks and a few deeper scratches.

After. If you look very closely here you see a very deep scratch that hasn’t been completely removed. By machine polishing the scratch I have rounded off the edges of it and made it quite difficult to see. There wasn’t any point in removing this completely because it was less obvious that the slight step in the paintwork from the stripes – which again were very difficult to see.

More sanding marks and swirls.

All gone.

More swirls and random deep scratches on bonnet.

Again these aren’t showing up too well on the camera but I’m sure you get the idea.

These shots the scrathes in pantwork slightly better. There were a few cirlce style marks on this panel which have been left from poor machine polishing in the past. I suspect this is from the factory as the reads on the panel were consistent with the rest of the car.

During.

After

The rear bumper was a mass of sanding marks. The worst panel for this on the car.

I had to take this picture at an angel to pick up these marks. The part on the left is the quarter panel and the part on the right with all the marks on it is the rear bumper.

After.

Top area corrected and lower area still to complete

Whilst polishing lower areas of the car I noticed that you can see the carbon fibre sills inside the car – which I thought was quite cool so I snapped a picture.

The lights had the typical swirl marks so were polished to

After

After all of the paintwork correction was complete I final polished the car before wiping it down with an alcohol solution to ensure the paintwork was perfectly clean and free from polishing oils. The paintwork was then double checked using the sun gun to ensure it was perfect and free from any holograms etc before sealing the paintwork with our exclusive £2000 carnauba wax.

I then started work on the engine bay. A few more shots here showing it looking clean but fairly dull and milkly. This is caused by the heat in the engine bay.

Before under the sun gun light also showing the swirl marks.

After polishing.

A massive improvement as you can see. This was sealed with Gtechniq C1 Crystal lacquer to help prevent further fading. The exhaust silencer was also polished and protected at this stage.

After the engine bay was completed I was on the home straight with just the interior and the final details such as polshing the windows, dressing the tyres.

Much like the exterior and engine bay of this car the interior was pretty awesome. Lovely bucket seats with carbon fibre and alcantara everywhere.

The carbon fibre in the interior suffered from some light swirling so this was given a machine polish.

After.

And the alcantara was cleaned with a dedicated cleaner.

After the interior was completed I checked every area on the car to ensure it was spotless and free from polishing dust.

And steam cleaned the wheels and callipers.

Before taking the car outside for some completed pictures.  Sadly the sun wasn’t out but I think the final pictures came out quite nice.

And back inside for a few more pictures. I didn’t get any interior shots whilst outside hence this rather poorly lit shot of the interior.

And the view you get if you look round from the driver seat.

A nice detail on the interior.

And a final parting / arty shot.

Thanks for reading.

Alongside newer vehicles, we also prepare cars for concours shows and collections. At Incredible Detail, we have over 10 years of experience in detailing, and we use the finest, most suitable products for your vehicle, ensuring that whatever make, marque or model you have, it will be treated with the very best care and attention possible

1. What is Detailing?

2. Is Detailing the same as valeting

3. What are the benifits of having my car detailed?

4. My car is absolutely brand new -  how can you improve the finish?

5. My car is valuable, vintage, or highly collectable – How can I be assured it will be detailed with care?

6. What is Paintwork correction?

7. What areas do you cover?

8. Can I come to you to have my car detailed?

9. What hours do you work?

10. Do I need to provide anything?

11. Do you have suitable insurance?

12. What payment method can I use?